Lamu: The Island of Pure Magic

My first visit to Lamu was in 2015 with a group of friends on road. Since the experience was amazing, I had to go a second time. I took the trip with my friend Bessy and it was quite surreal since it was only the two of us with no pre-determined places to visit and activities to do. Lamu is like no other place ever, an experience so unique from your typical visits to the coastal areas such as Mombasa, Malindi and Diani.

Shela Island – Lamu

Lamu is a combination of beautiful islands seemingly untouched by modernisation. The main ones are Lamu – the main town is here with very historic buildings and old Swahili architecture that is absolutely breathtaking- Shela Island, Manda Island.

It removes itself from the busy streets and honking cars and poises blue waters and calm residents that are extremely polite and kind. One surprising fact is that there are only two cars on the entire island!

We alighted at Manda Airport and boarded a speed boat to Shela to look for a hotel. Shela is populated with tourist hotels, therefore, it wasn’t hard to find one right next to the beach. We had access to the lounge area that overlooked the ocean.

Lounge area outside our rooms – Shela Pwani Guest House

We settled in and left our luggage in the rooms and were out by 12 pm headed to Lamu island.

Once we got to Lamu town, we decided to have lunch at the infamous Seafront Cafe. We were the only ones there, and the food was one of the most delicious dishes I have ever had. It is a low-key place with a Master chef kind of cooking and therefore always highly recommended.

From here we proceeded to explore the very narrow streets of Lamu from the museum to the hotels within the town. Lamu being a historical Swahili town has a touch of Islamic civilization mixed in with Swahili Architecture, therefore, streets were lined with two or three-storey buildings and the streets were very narrow. The main mode of transport in Lamu is donkeys and Boat ride.

The narrow streets of Lamu

We got back in the evening and spent the evening down at Peponi Hotel lounge for some cocktails enjoying the very cool sea breeze and the serene moonlit waters.

The next day we wake up to a slightly gloomy morning that quickly turns to a light drizzle, so we resolve to stay in and wait it out. It’s interesting how despite the rain and gloom, Lamu was still incredibly beautiful. Later on, at about 10 am, we venture out to the other island right opposite Shela, – Manda Island.

Manda has cleaner and more even beaches compared to Shela and is quite a tourist hit. When you plan to go to Lamu, I am sure you will encounter the name ‘The Majlis’. This is a huge resort in Manda that spans quite a few kilometres along with the beach offers, restaurant; bar; wedding venue, and accommodation. It is an imposing, intricately designed structure that had me instantly awed.

We decided to have the seafood platter for lunch at the Majlis as we enjoyed the cool breeze, and low background music gazing out at the ocean. It was quiet, calming and out of this world, unlike the hustle and bustle that is Nairobi. And you will very quickly find that to be Lamu’s charm. Despite the tourists, it manages to retain its quiet, appearing to submit all its visitors to the tranquil.

Sunset Cruise

As always, the best for last: the sunset cruise. It mainly involves hiring a dhow for about 5 pm to 7 pm to cruise in the ocean watching as the sun sets and the moon rises. We navigated the islands from Lamu to Manda through the thick vegetation in the ocean.

You get to enjoy bites and drinks drifting along with the waves and meandering the waters. It is such a sight as the sun sets slowly colouring the horizon and the water golden.

All in all, Lamu is one of the destinations one should purpose to visit at least once in a lifetime. Until next time…Kwaheri Lamu.